Black Is the Color of My True Love's Crust

The dark side.Photo: Jason Perlow

Like a Maxim "special breast issue" or a Cigar Aficionado report on status anxiety, the definitive N.Y. pizza blog Slice's "Di Fara Roundup" is a redundancy. Di Fara's is, with a handful of other pantheon pizzerias, Slice's reason for existence. But look past this back, that is, to the post on Egullet co-founder Jason Perlow's photoblog Off the Broiler, which partly inspired the roundup. In singling out Di Fara's square pie for special praise, Perlow reveals a big blind spot shared by the faithful. Beloved pizza man Dom DeMarco and we count ourselves among his greatest fans actually burns over half of the square pies. His oven is a million years old, give or take, and its hot spots are hard for him to control, especially given the equally ancient cookie pans the Saint of Avenue J uses for the square pizza. We aren't kidding when we say "burned" even the bottom of the slice Perlow shoots from below (in what Slice likes to call a "pizza upskirt shot") is totally blackened. That no one even mentions this is proof of the most orthodox religious fidelity. [Slice: "Di Fara Roundup"]