Bruni has his birthday party at “reinvigorated” Picholine and, to the tune of three stars, declares it “arguably the nicest restaurant surprise of this disappointing season.” [NYT]
Meehan has mixed feelings about Lunetta but concedes: “Mr. Shepard can cook.” [NYT]
Alan Richman goes slumming at the Port Authority Bus Terminal and finds signs of promise at best. “Metro Marche is not a great restaurant. Unless Escoffier takes over the kitchen, it will never be a fashionable one. It could become quite respectable, though.” [Bloomberg]
7Square helps Andrea Strong achieve “peacefulness” in the theater district; she dubs this “steakhouse version 2.5.” [Strong Buzz]
At another chophouse, Porter House New York (this one with “no gold-leaf shtick, no thrills,” as Gael pointed out), Moira Hodgson loves the superb lamb chops and the outstanding tongue salad, and the cheesecake is the best she’s ever had. [NYO]
Rub-happy Lonesome Dove rubs yet another critic the wrong way, though Paul Adams likes the non-steak dishes a lot more than Platt did: “The ‘prairie butter’ is delicious; and a dark-horse main course of lamb chops ($26) is fantastic.” [NYS]
Augie knocks down one of the West Village newcomers, the thriving Cafe Cluny. “The best you can hope for from a restaurant serving the standards that are on this menu is aptitude, which this place has.” [Augieland]