Southern-Style Chicken, and Very Southern-Style Chicken



A big pan for a big man: Charles Gabriel.Photo: Alyson Aliano


In this week's Openings, Rob and Robin herald the appearance of two very different kinds of southern chicken restaurants: Pardo's, the latest in the burgeoning genre of Peruvian rotisserie places, and Charles' Southern Style Kitchen on Lenox Avenue, a new outpost of Harlem pan virtuoso Charles Gabriel's mini-empire. (Rack & Soul is another; here's our listing for the restaurant on 151st Street.) Both places trace their roots back to southern climes, and though we have yet to sample Pardo's, no one who has ever trekked to Harlem to taste Charles' pan-fried wonders has come back less than awed. (Also opening: Nespresso Boutique Bar, an espresso emporium owned a Nestl subsidiary.)

Openings: Pardo's, Nespresso Boutique Bar, Charles' Southern Style Kitchen [NYM]