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It’s a standard gripe among foodie types that TV food personalities are too plastic, too telegenic — that in other words, they’re chosen for their appearance rather than their cred. But witnessing a dinner conversation between the acerbic comedian Susie Essman, of Curb Your Enthusiasm, and Vogue food critic (and Iron Chef guest judge) Jeffrey Steingarten on Serious Eats helps explain why TV food hosts look the way they do. Essman is likably gruff and witty, and Steingarten erudite, but these might be the two unhealthiest-looking people we’ve seen since Alexander Litvinenko. Watching them devour fried rice, egg rolls, and noodles at Chinatown Brasserie while talking about eating horse fat made us want to join an ashram and live on nuts and berries. And that’s saying something. Bring back the Stepford chefs! We finally see why TV needs them.

Serious Eats Video: Hecklers and Horse Fat [Serious Eats]