Debacle at the Russian Tea Room; Neroni Wins a Rave

The Russian Tea Room must be sorry they hassled Frank Bruni over a bottle of wine. [NYT]

Peter Meehan finds the ribs at the Smoke Joint “passable.” [NYT]

A rave for Grub Street pen pal Jason Neroni at Porchetta — “thought-provoking but mouthwatering as well.” [NYS]

Not a review, strictly speaking, but Cuozzo slams Varietal for their use of a toxic bean, finds the wine list “heavy on obscure and mediocre selections, like sour-tasting Tasmanian pinot noir.” [NYP]

Best sardines ever at Brooklyn’s Sample, “a geography class for gourmands.” [NYDN]

Chez Lola is an “incredibly sexy, glamorous and inventive melding of an art deco bar and eclectic antique shop,” and the food is pretty good too. [New York Press]