Dona Is Dead, Long Live the Haute Greeks

Molyvos: Ready to take up the slack?Photo: Paul Johnson

The news that Dona is closing Saturday has us in a dismal mood. Who knows how long it will be until chef Michael Psilakis is back behind his stove? In the meantime or if you cant score a reservation at Dona in the next couple of days we suggest you sample the following dishes at these five remaining temples of Aegean cookery.

Pareas dolmatas (stuffed grape leaves) with lobster and lemon egg sauce remain a major draw, as does the skate wing with house-cured pork. Finish your meal with their fried doughnuts and strong black coffee.

At Thalassa, chef Gregory Zapantis's gigantic Tribeca restaurant, look for diver scallops wrapped in shredded phyllo with sheep's-milk butter and a kalamata balsamic reduction.

Fish doesnt come any fresher or more expensive than at Estiatorio Milos. Most of it comes grilled with lemon, olive oil, and sea salt; for $10 more, get the fish baked in sea salt for an even purer fish experience, without the woody charcoal flavor.

Tonights special at Snack Taverna: pan-seared scallops in spicy Avgolemono sauce with red peppers, kalamata olives, and a tomato fritter; and a whole roasted branzino with thyme, shallots, and lemon, served with potatoes and wilted greens.

At Molyvos you can always enjoy Jim Botsacoss elevated moussaka, with its velvety spiced ground lamb and nutmeg-scented yogurt bchamel.