Heirloom navel oranges, not to be confused with heirloom belly-button oranges.Photo: Zoe Singer
What to Look For
Charentais melons, a.k.a. cavaillon, are often considered monarchs among melons. Choose a heavy-feeling fruit with a slightly soft rind and a sweet, musky perfume and serve as is, with prosciutto, or in desserts (recipe) ($5.99 each at Citarella).
Dried coco rose beans can be simmered — even without advance soaking — to silken perfection. Unlike other dried beans, which are often shriveled and broken, these cocoa-colored French legumes are glossy and plump, with hints of chestnut and a meaty taste that makes simple soups shine and is richly satisfying on its own (recipe) ($2.99 per 500 grams at Fairway).
“Old line” heirloom navel orange trees, grown from a mix of sweet and sour rootstocks, produce large fruit with dense, sweet-tart segments. Peel and eat the oranges or use their juice to brighten savory dishes like these bay scallops (recipe) (widely available).
Casino di Caprafico’s farro pasta has a suaver texture than most whole-wheat pastas. (Farro, or emmer wheat, is an ancient strain that has been a staple since Mesopotamian times.) To appreciate the clean taste of the grain, toss lightly with olive-oil-based sauces or just sprinkle with Parmesan and pepper ($5.99 per 500 grams at Zabar's).
Ripe for the Moment
The jewel-colored fruit juices bottled by Lembachhof of Austria evoke late summer, just in time for winter’s slog. The pear-elderberry juice is a syrupy, fragrant blend. The so-called apple forest juice is crisper, with a hint of berry and a sprightly apple flavor ($2.59 per seven-ounce bottle at Fairway). — Zoe Singer
