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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

March 11, 2007 - March 17, 2007

Restroom Report 

3/16/07

4:40 PM

Basking in the Casks: Sakagura's Five-Star Toilets

Knock before barreling in.

Though we're suckers for that new-bathroom smell (aah, the leather at Amalia, the pine at Morandi), every now and then we get the sudden urge to revisit those restrooms that really raised the watermark. One such classic lies deep in the bowels of a midtown office building, immediately beyond the hidden entry of perennial sake spot Sakagura.

Kabuki masks and Noguchi lamps. »

Two for Eight 

3/16/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Manducatis and Thomas Beisl; Applewood Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Greater New York.

From Applewood to Trattoria L'Incontro »

Neighborhood Watch 

3/16/07

3:52 PM

Saint Patrick's Day Not the Only Excuse to Drink This Weekend

Clinton Hill: Olivino Wines will host a free tasting tonight. [Clinton Hill Blog]
Dumbo: BoConcept's opening bash tonight offers free vodka to benefit children. [Brooklyn Record]
Greenpoint: A vegetarian restaurant named William Howard Taft will open soon on Calyer Street. There's a story behind the odd name, but don't ask us to explain it. [Gowanus Lounge]
Harlem: The sleek waterfront Hudson River Cafe is about to have its grand opening. [Uptown Flavor] But the DEN will give you a free cocktail or appetizer just for checking out Vanessa Williams's new modest-budget film. [Uptown Flavor]
Prospect Heights: New fair-trade coffee at Prospect Perk tastes like ox, hippie, and doped-up poet. Which is, apparently, good. [dailyheights.com]
Tribeca: There's a "forgotten-cask" Cognac tasting tonight at Brandy Library; freebies mean Single-Malt Saturday is canceled. Farther downtown, plans for a two-story restaurant may overshadow Pier 26 boathouse. [downtown express]
Union Square: Zen Palate to open vegetarian burger chain. [VV]

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Openings 

3/16/07

2:40 PM

The Mystery of the Plaster Puppy: Solved

Mind if I crash here?

We usually have to peek between plywood to get a look at construction (except in the case of the LES Whole Foods, which provided handy viewing squares), but this work-in-progress on St. Marks Place is all the more mysterious for the fact that every night, the lights are on but nobody is home — except for a giant plaster puppy lying on the floor.

What the...? »

Back of the House 

3/16/07

1:55 PM

Time to Fill Out Our James Beard Brackets

Wylie Dufresne: Beard-bound, says us.Photo: Patrick McMullan

The nominations for the James Beard Foundation Awards, the Oscars of the restaurant industry, will be announced Monday morning. We’ll report on that as it happens, but for now, here are picks for the main categories from Adam Platt, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld, and Josh Ozersky. Our choices are admittedly New York–centric (the awards go to restaurants across the country), but the ceremony is held here, and the city always looms large in the proceedings.

And the winners (should be)... »

NewsFeed 

3/16/07

12:07 PM

Death & Co. Comes Back From the Dead Tonight

This morning brings good news from Death & Co.’s Dave Kaplan:

After a long dry spell, Death & Co. celebrates its reopening tonight! We will open tonight at 6pm and resume normal operating hours. Please join us for a celebratory drink.
Long dry spell? Dave, tell that to Dave Brodrick, who was bone-dry for months before finally reopening the Blind Tiger last night. (We were there to hoist a celebratory Lagunitas Hairy Eyeball.) Either way, it’s a good week to be a Dave. —Daniel Maurer

Update: Don’t raise that celebratory drink too high. SLA spokesman Bill Crowley tells us Death & Co., New York’s Best Cocktail Bar for Downing the Brown, is still under investigation and has merely been granted permission to operate while the Authority decides whether to renew its license.

Previously:
Twist Your Baseball Caps Back: Blind Tiger Reopens Thursday
Blind Tiger Co-Owner Rips the Department of Health, Human Nature
Are Rumors of Death & Co.’s Death Exaggerated?
Neighbors Accuse Death & Co. of Noise, Evoking Nazism

NewsFeed 

3/16/07

11:17 AM

David Bouley to Start Counting Calories

David Bouley earned his four stars cooking fattening French cuisine for the overclass. But now that that same set is obsessed with health, he’s teaming up with celebrity nutritionist Oz Garcia (who has revised the diets of Hilary Swank, Donna Karan, and Russell Simmons, but has never been in the restaurant business). "David first came to me because he wanted to learn about my approach to health and nutrution," says Garcia. Now the pair is planning to open health-oriented restaurants around the world; the first one is set to debut this winter at the St. Regis in Anguilla. Bouley has a "bio-yogurt" pro-biotic sauce formerly found only in health-food stores, as well as a detox drink from rice protein, pomegranate juice, and gogi berries. Even olive oil is not acceptable—it is being subbed for by wheat-germ oil.
Beth Landman

Mediavore 

3/16/07

9:47 AM

De Marco's Maniac Caught On Tape; NYC Denied Shamrock Shakes

The NYPD releases a surveillance video of the De Marco’s gun battle. It’s difficult to make out, but very graphic and not a little disturbing. [WNBC]

Brace yourselves: McDonald’s has decreed that there will be no more Shamrock Shakes in NYC, although they’re still widely available elsewhere. What’s up with that? [NYDN]

The Smith and Wollensky Restaurant Group is enjoying a sudden bidding war for its acquisition, after having already accepted a good offer. [Crain’s]

Liebrandt's lasagna caught on video; a defense of rats. »

The New York Diet 

3/16/07

9:00 AM

‘MySpace Queen’ Tila Tequila Drinks Sprite With her Fugu, Likes Her Omelettes With Ketchup

"I can’t eat too much raw stuff. But I try everything at least once."Photo: Melissa Hom

Tila “Tequila” Nguyen, the “Madonna of MySpace” per Time magazine, met at least some of her 1.7 million virtual friends when she lived in New York City and “experimented with drugs and a hardcore lifestyle,” according to her bio. She eventually moved to Hollywood to start her career as an Internet celebrity, model, and singer, and by the time she was returning here weekly to host VH1’s Pants Off Dance Off she had moved on to vices like dirty-water hot dogs, mozzarella sticks, and mushroom pizzas. This week Tila flew in once again to promote her new self-released single and to pose for the cover of yet another magazine (“It’s the Baddass issue,” she explained). We asked her what she noshed on to get through the grind.

"I woke up eating hot dogs and a pizza and some Chinese noodles." »

NewsFeed 

3/15/07

4:49 PM

Owner of D’Or, Opening Tonight, Also Plotting Rooftops to Rival 230 Fifth

Basement feeling a little stuffy? Don't worry, a rooftop's coming.Photo: Courtesy of D'Or

Tonight’s launch of D’Or (pictured above), the lounge underneath the Dream Hotel’s newly opened Amalia, isn’t the most exciting thing owner Greg Brier has going. He tells us that on July 1 he’ll open a 4,000 sq. ft. rooftop on the 16th floor of the Hilton Gardens hotel on 48th Street and Eighth Avenue — a space he believes will trump 230 Fifth in size. A two-minute walk through a utility corridor and a high-speed elevator trip will lead visitors to an enclosed fifteenth-floor lounge with a glass fireplace. And the roof? “It’s going to have a Japanese garden-type feel,” Brier says, “with teak decking and little plots so people can break away from the crowd.” More than likely, he’ll ask Amalia chef Ivy Stark to consult on a menu of “real American barbecue.”

And that's just rooftop number one. »

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Two for Eight 

3/15/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Maremma and ‘Cesca; Morandi Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet Italian.

From A Voce to San Domenico. »

Neighborhood Watch 

3/15/07

3:39 PM

Space for Even Your Butt in Williamsburg This Weekend

Harlem: Eat at Dinosaur, get bowling discount. [UPTOWN flavor]
Lower East Side: Holes suspected in Schiller’s rubber glove story. That’s right, holes. [Gridskipper]
Soho: Babouche, the Moroccan restaurant and lounge brought to us by the people behind Barbes, now serves brochettes at brunch. [PDF: Babouche NYC]
Tribeca: Former Abboccato sous chef Greg Johnson is the new chef de cuisine at Dani. Sun amuses self calling the cook Dani Boy. [NYS]
Union Square: 15 East now serving lunch. But why didn’t the Eater boys “live-blog” the event? [NYS]
West Village: Blind Tiger will open at 4 p.m. today with beer on tap after an exasperating tug-of-war with the SLA. [Grub Street]
Williamsburg: Mystery Japanese restaurant on North 6th thought to open tonight. [A Test of Will] But you probably won’t get in until this weekend. [i'm not saying, i'm just saying] Thankfully new tapas joint Nita Nita has room enough for wide asses. [Bad Advice]

What to Eat Tonight 

3/15/07

2:16 PM

We’ve Got Oceana’s New Menu — and Word of a Special Served Only Tonight

Straight outta the Columbia River.Photo courtesy Oceana

The man Ben Pollinger succeeded as executive chef at Oceana in October, Cornelius Gallagher, was one of the city’s top toques, and much of the kitchen left with him. Finally, though, Pollinger has settled in and after much tweaking of the original, finally introduced his own menu (which we’ve filed into our flourishing playground of a database). Says the chef: “Oceana’s menu reflects my vision for what I wanted to do here: a kind of global seafood, with a simultaneous awareness of classic American cooking.”

Yes, yes, but what about that sturgeon? »

Openings 

3/15/07

11:06 AM

Mandler’s Releases the Dogs Near Port Authority

We'll admit that the upside-down exclamation point isn't a good sign.Photo: Melissa Hom

Garlicky krainerwurst, plump knockwurst, Italian sausages, classic kosher frankfurters: All these things and more (zucchini fries, corn fritters) will soon be within easy reach of the weary folks streaming through Port Authority (weary Times workers will have to wait until they’ve moved into their fancy new tower). Mandler’s, the Union Square wurst mecca, kicks off expansion plans that include the Upper West Side, Midtown East, and franchises in other states with Monday’s opening of a second location on Eighth Avenue. Besides being significantly bigger than the original, the midtown store will sell crêpes and smoothies. All in all, it’s a smart move for Mandler’s: They’re not only introducing their brand to the valuable bus-tourist demographic but the porn-DVD browsers and Siberia revelers as well.

Mandler’s, The Original Sausage Co., 601 Eighth Ave., nr. 39th St.; 212-244-4777.

Mediavore 

3/15/07

9:55 AM

De Marco’s Bartender Shot in Village Gun Rampage; Big-Check Chains on the Rise

DeMarco’s bartender and two NYPD auxiliary officers shot and killed in Village gun rampage. [NYP]

High-end chain restaurants like Smith & Wollensky or Dos Caminos are on the rise, as some recent mergers and acquisitions suggest. [Nation's Restaurant News]

Joël Robuchon stands behind the counter at L’Atelier this week; Alain Ducasse may not be going to Chicago after all. [Snack]

Video of Liebrandt cooking for Steingarten; in defense of food coloring. »

The Gobbler 

3/15/07

9:04 AM

Where to Send Your French Friend Maurice for Continental Opulence

At Per Se: "Like I always say, when in New York, do as the Frenchmen do."Photo: Patrik Rytikangas for New York magazine

The Gobbler’s friend, a well-traveled aesthete and gentleman, called the other day on his way from the airport to ask for a list of newer dining establishments where he could find a civilized meal. The Gobbler told this friend (let’s call him Maurice) that civilized dining was no more in Manhattan. The grand old French restaurants have been routed from the field, replaced by an uncertain rabble of fusion joints, haute Italian pasta palaces, and pork-centric dining bars. Maurice was aghast. “I want a minimum of four waiters for the table,” he cried into his gleaming Treo. “I want to pay $500 bucks for a bottle of Burgundy, I want a tea sommelier, I want to feel like I’m having an EXTRAORDINARY DINING EXPERIENCE.” This peevish outburst got the Gobbler thinking about old-fashioned (read “Continental”) opulence, and where you can find it in this fickle, pork-obsessed town.

$500 bottle of Burgundy? We'll give you a $500 bottle of Burgundy! »

NewsFeed 

3/14/07

5:45 PM

Morandi Is On for Lunch: Care to See the Menu?

Or you could just have a liquid lunch.Photo: RJ Mickelson/Veras

Morandi, the love child of Keith McNally and Jody Williams, has started serving lunch. Allow us to show you the menu, which is available from noon until 3 p.m. weekdays (reservations are taken up to one week in advance) and features poached-salmon paninis, saltimbocca, and pollo alla diavola. Good as the food sounds, you may be more excited by the fact that, first, you’ll now be able to score a seat during civilized hours (we just asked for a one o'clock table tomorrow and felt no pain) and, second, the weather is nice enough for them to have thrown open the French doors. Better still: outdoor tables in the summer and brunch coming soon. —Daniel Maurer

Related: Restaurant Openings [NYM]

NewsFeed 

3/14/07

5:08 PM

Vongerichten May Deep-Six 66, Serve Sushi and Soba Instead

Things look fine from down here in the gutter.Photo: Getty Images

Is 66, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s underperforming Chinese-themed outpost, closing? A restaurant consultant moving in international circles (whom we communicate with via self-destructing personal digital assistants) informs us that the superchef intends on partnering with a Japanese restaurant firm and executing a sushi-and-soba concept in the space. Vongerichten, meanwhile, tells us the story is “just a rumor,” and that he’s in fact considering a sushi-soba restaurant at another location. (Of course, closing announcements generally aren’t made until the last minute — they’re bad for business, and the staff needs to be told first.) Either way, we’re now craving Japanese.

NewsFeed 

3/14/07

4:42 PM

Damon Wise, Now Officially the Man at Craft, Brings in Shane McBride

Damon Wise: I am so in senior management now.Photo: Josh Ozersky

Restaurant Girl reported earlier today that Shane McBride, formerly of 7Square (RIP), had been hired as the chef at Craftsteak, taking over for Chris Albrecht, apparently nudged out in January. Craft emperor Tom Colicchio set the record straight with us: “Here’s the deal,” he tells us. “For the last three months, Damon Wise has been the acting chef at Craftsteak and has completely changed the way things are done there: the suppliers, the menu, everything. Shane has been hired specifically to execute the menu that Damon created. Damon has worked his ass off day and night, and I want him to get credit for that.” Done and done.

Oh, but there's more. »

Two for Eight 

3/14/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Kittichai and Chanterelle; Mas Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Restaurants for romance.

From Cafe des Artistes to 360. »

Neighborhood Watch 

3/14/07

3:15 PM

Coney Island War Escalates; Ice Cream Ruined in Tragic Melting

Boerum Hill: One Girl Cookies will show you how to bake bread, then have you eat it with cheese. It’s all part of a two-part course slated for March 26 and 27. [eating for brooklyn]
Coney Island: The corn-dogs-versus-condos battle escalates as a new opposition group unites against Thor Equities in Coney Island. [Gowanus Lounge]
Harlem: Tomorrow from 6 to 8 p.m. East Harlem Cafe will host a Central and South American coffee tasting. The tippling’s free if you show up on a burro (or show up at all). [UPTOWN flavor]
Midtown East: French-Moroccan restaurant-lounge Azza opens tomorrow in the space that formerly held Fizz, a club so private it went out of business. [NYT]
Soho: A former sous-chef for Pearl Oyster Bar will open Ed’s Lobster Bar Friday. And yes, his name is in fact Ed. [NYT]
West Village: Eater boys “live-blog” Jody Williams whipping up her first lunch at Morandi. [Eater]
Williamsburg: Isn’t it ironic … A fire damaged a garage full of Koolman ice-cream trucks last night. [i'm not sayin, i'm just sayin]

NewsFeed 

3/14/07

12:00 PM

Flatbush Farm Chef Takes Leave of the Barnyard

Eric Lind, the chef who opened Flatbush Farm, has left the Haute Barnyard hit. You may be disappointed to learn that neither of the two projects he’s consulting on center around seasonal foods: Stella Maris, a recently opened restaurant on Front Street, specializes in modern Irish cooking; Nelson Blue is a New Zealand–themed gastropub also on Front Street set to open in mid- to late April. Once he’s done downtown, Lind plans on another eatery of his own, likely in the “rustic, organic, country style” he established at Flatbush Farm. “This is the food that really appeals to me,” he tells us, “and the food that I like to eat.” He’s not the only one.

Related:
Haute Barnyard Take on a Classic SoCal Sandwich
Flatbush Farm Takes Haute Barnyard to the Next Level

The Other Critics 

3/14/07

11:22 AM

Anthos Broadsided, Gramercy Tavern Hammered

Bruni sympathetically reviews Nish, handing down two stars, but he seems less impressed than other critics (with the exception of Randall Lane). [NYT]

Peter Meehan enjoys the tapas at Ostia, but suggests that the trend may have played itself out. [NYT]

Alan Richman gives what may be the first totally negative write-up of Gramercy Tavern: Apparently the food is complicated and bland, the service undersupervised, and the room lacking in personality. A major blow to new chef Michael Anthony. [Bloomberg]
Related: Everything Topsy-Turvy at Gramercy Tavern

Junior critic goes postal, Sietsema soft. »

Mediavore 

3/14/07

10:07 AM

The Coffee Shop Open Again; Marcus Samuelsson Heading to Meatpacking?

With Gordon Ramsay, DB Bistro Moderne, and others, room service has recently gotten a lot more ambitious — though not necessarily successful. [NYT]

The Coffee Shop is back in business after its brief and much-publicized closure. [NYP]

Once they move into Sascha, the brothers behind PM plan to put Aquavit’s Marcus Samuelsson in charge of the kitchen. [Eater]
Related: PM Owners to Open Harlem Restaurant, Bistro-Bakery-Club in Sascha Space

Changes at the Russian Tea Room, Craftsteak, and Dani. »

NewsFeed 

3/14/07

8:58 AM

We Try a $1,000 Pizza, Maintain That We Aren’t Publicity Tools

Nino Selimaj represents for the American way of life.Photo: Everett Bogue

Given that we’ve already witnessed a $165 “Truffletini” (which we tasted) at Tini Ristorante, $120 hamburger at DB Bistro Moderne, $200 baked potato at the Four Seasons, and a $1,000 omelette at Norma’s, we weren’t surprised to hear about a $1,000 pizza. All it took was an upscale pizza joint — Nino’s Bellissima Pizza — six containers of caviar, a hardworking publicist, and lo, the four-figure, nine-inch pie was born. One has apparently already been sold, to celebrity ex-cop Bo Dietl. (We await the creation of a truffle doughnut explicitly for him.)

A closer look -- and a taste! »

Ask a Waiter 

3/13/07

4:56 PM

RUB’s Jonathan Meyer Cleans Up Your ‘Mystery Napkins’

"I’ve had people bite my head off to where you’re not able to serve them."Photo: Melissa Hom

After serving as a barista at Cafe Gitane, Jonathan Meyer joined the opening team as a server at RUB, New York’s pick for Best Barbecue. “It was a huge change,” he tells us. “I didn’t know anything about smoking meats.” (Meyer’s primary love is the theater group he runs, PossEble.) Almost two years later, the Long Island native is informed enough to hold his own against southerners who he says “wear their barbecue knowledge on their sleeve.” We asked him to steer us through the very heated world of Righteous Urban Barbecue.

"They'll ask for a drink with half of a pulled-pork sandwich on their cheek." »

Two for Eight 

3/13/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Masa and Morimoto; Sumile Sushi Fully Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Haute Asian.

Buddakan to Sumile Sushi. »

Neighborhood Watch 

3/13/07

3:23 PM

Bond St Sushi Burns; Coffee Shop Closing Averts Bad Date

Coney Island: Surf Avenue LLC has just purchased nearly 16,000 square feet across from the Cyclone, possibly on which to build a chain restaurant, maintain a parking lot, or create another “Shoot the Freak.” [Gowanus Lounge]
East Elmhurst: La Guardia gets fancy with Michael Navarro’s Deluge. Getting drunk before a flight finally gets a classy gloss. [Gayot]
East Village: Photos of the electrical fire that scorched Bond St sushi at dawn. [Eater] $500,000 in damages predicted. [Gothamist]
Midtown West: Italian, Asian, French, and Latin cuisine coming together at 4Fusion on West 58th Street. We suggest the burger. [Gayot]
Park Slope: Former Oceana chef Jared King no longer involved with Alchemy, but the menu’s holding steady. [Gothamist]
Tribeca: Will a fancy new bus stop at the entrance of Bouley spur the rich people’s interest in public transportation? [Curbed]
Union Square: Coffee Shop’s closing saves pretty waitress from a date with sleazy customer. [NYS]

NewsFeed 

3/13/07

10:54 AM

The Latest Haute Heritage Meat: Chicken

We don't know if we want to fight him or eat him.Photo courtesy Heritage Foods USA

Heritage Foods USA recently announced the arrival of a chicken so pure and primitive, so unspoiled by modern industrial breeding, that it has “even retained [its] fighting look” from its days as a battling Javanese bird. The price of the Indian Game Chicken is fierce, too: $68 for two three-and-a-half pounders. Apparently, the first batch of birds sold out in two days, and the company reports that some of the city’s top chefs have come calling, including those from the Batali group, the Craft restaurants, and the Cleaver Catering Company.

But there's a catch. »

Mediavore 

3/13/07

10:12 AM

Trump Eyes Tavern on the Green, Tavern Blushes; Steingarten in a Bathrobe

Donald Trump covets the most vulgar thing in New York that doesn’t already have his name on it: the Tavern on the Green, which has two years left on its lease. [NYP]

A Zeitgeist moment: The East Village’s alt.coffee gives up the ghost, remaking itself as a “Hopscotch, a café tailored to the needs of children and families.” [Gawker]

Candela owners shutting down and reopening as Irving Mill Restaurant and Tap Room in the fall, with Gramercy Tavern alum Johnny Schaeffer doing his Greenmarket thing in the kitchen. [Strong Buzz]

Professor exposes fast food mismanagment. »

User's Guide 

3/13/07

9:00 AM

Don’t Tell Al Gore: Soft-Shell Crabs Already Here

"All this shvitzing — I've got to get out of this shell."Photo: Kevin Fleming/Corbis

When, in the very first week of March, soft-shell crabs appeared at the Grand Central Oyster Bar, they seemed as unnatural as two-headed kittens. These molted creatures, normally a summer treat, have been appearing earlier and earlier. (The Oyster Bar folks claim they’ve cornered the winter market.) Are they a product of … global warming? And are these freaks any good? We asked David Pasternack, executive chef at Esca and our adviser on all things briny.

Yo, Pasternack: What's up with that? »

NewsFeed 

3/12/07

5:20 PM

PM Owners to Open Harlem Restaurant, Bistro-Bakery-Club in Sascha Space

PM owners (and brothers) Kyky and Unik are poised to increase their footprint on the meatpacking district: They’ve acquired the space that formerly housed Sascha and plan to reopen it in June as an as-yet-unnamed three-part venue that’ll include a 24-hour sandwich spot with bakery, a casual Italian bistro, and an exclusive lounge with black-on-black décor that will host D.J.’s and live music.

The chef? "From a very famous place." »

Neighborhood Watch 

3/12/07

4:21 PM

Williamsburg: Subway Out, Silent H In

Coney Island : Having evicted and demolished the neighboring mini-golf course, Thor Equities neglects to renew the lease for beachside fave the Grill House. Where else are we supposed to get pretzels on hot dogs? [Gowanus Lounge]
East Village: Just in time for the 50-plus-degree weather, a Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory alum has opened a haute creamery on Avenue B near 14th Street. [DailyCandy]
Harlem: Gospel jazz comes to the Harlem Tea Room Friday night. Sure to be a wild evening. [Uptown Flavor]
Midtown East: Local prisons and the United Nations share a controversial food supplier, Aramark. Also, you’re allowed to smoke in the U.N. dining room. [Gridskipper]
West Village: Locals find a creative outlet to cope with fears of rat infestation: unchecked pun-making. [NewYorkology]
Williamsburg: Controversial Subway franchise on Bedford now up for sale. Comes with free trapper hat. [Curbed] Vinh Nguyen fulfills his dream of bringing good Vietnamese to New York, helping people pronounce his name with the opening of Silent H. (His dream of serving alcohol, on the other hand … ) [i'm not sayin, i'm just sayin]

Two for Eight 

3/12/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Hearth and Prune; Stanton Social Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Destinations for New American cuisine.

From Aureole to Tocqueville. »

At the Market 

3/12/07

2:32 PM

Spring Forward With Daffodils, Branch Out with Different Bananas

If you have no daughters, give them to your sons.Photo: Zoe Singer

Now that we've set the clocks ahead, our minds turn to tender dandelion greens and slender ramps, but until the local growing season gets under way, we’ll have to bide time with forced bulbs and unusual bananas.

A tip for reserving shad roe, late-season citrus worth the wait, and a Lenten indulgence. »

Foodievents 

3/12/07

1:11 PM

Y’all Think You Know Barbecue? In Fact, You Do Not

We don't much care for you city folk ... want some ribs?Photo courtesy Kingsford Charcoal

Barbecue champion Chris Lilly’s demonstration today in Madison Square Park could not be better timed. It’s now dawning on the city that we’re entering a sort of barbecue renaissance — just last week, Peter Meehan produced a lengthy survey of the local smoky arts — and the promise of warmer weather alone has sent our cravings off the meter. We look forward to gorging at RUB, our Best of New York barbecue pick, but that’s no excuse for skipping out on this southern master’s appearance. Lilly, a four-time Memphis in May world titlist, will be offering free samples of his famous pulled pork, fresh out of the smoker, at 5 p.m. Miss it and you’ll have to head to Decatur, Ala., and catch Lilly at Big Bob Gibson’s, his restaurant.

“Spring Forward, Get Grilling,” Madison Square Park, between 23rd St. and 26th St. and Fifth Ave. and Madison Ave.; no phone.

Related: The Great NYC Barbecue Battle [NYM]

Openings 

3/12/07

11:20 AM

Twist Your Baseball Caps Back: Blind Tiger Reopens Thursday

Earlier we let you know that the venerable Blind Tiger, after trying to pass as a coffee shop and then finally shuttering, had finally been cleared for a liquor license at its new location. Now comes word that it’ll reopen in time for its eleventh anniversary this Thursday.

"We just ordered fifty kegs and I don't know how many cases." »

The Underground Gourmet 

3/12/07

10:45 AM

Haute Barnyard Take on a Classic SoCal Sandwich

Go ahead, pop out those dentures.Photo: Melissa Hom

Almost as much as he loves discovering and devouring worthy sandwiches, the Underground Gourmet also loves to brush up on his sandwich lore and then regale Ms. UG with his fascinating findings — which is precisely what he did after a recent excursion to Park Slope’s Flatbush Farm, where he tucked into a delicious French-dip sandwich.

As you may or may not know (Ms. UG did not), the illustrious French dip, like so much of America’s storied sandwicherie, has a slightly murky history. Two restaurants, both founded in 1908 and both located in downtown Los Angeles, lay claim to it. The owners of Philippe the Original say that the French dip was born when founder Philippe Mathieu, while making a sandwich for a policeman one day in 1918, accidentally dropped a long French-style roll into some meaty pan juices. The copper — whose name may or may not have been Officer French — liked it so much he came back the next day for an encore performance. Had Philippe possessed better reflexes or the cop fussier standards, the world might be, to this day, bereft of French dips.

Or do we owe it all to a toothless old man? »

Mediavore 

3/12/07

10:20 AM

Kitchen Abuse Exposed; Health Department Shutdowns Triple

Apparently, abuse of every kind is rampant in kitchens. Herewith, complaints leveled against Daniel, Jean Georges, Megu, Babbo, and more. [NYP]

Post–KFC–Taco Bell scandal, New York restaurant closures triple. [NYP]

Morandi is, like every other Keith McNally venture, a smashing success, and likely to remain so. [NYP]

The imminent opening of Kenny Shopsin's stand; LIC's massive fortune cookie factory. »

Back of the House 

3/12/07

9:00 AM

The Great Chef Crisis

"Psst … what's 'al dente' mean again?"Photo: Rene Sheret/Stone Collection

Recently, apropos nothing much, a prominent young chef we were chatting with launched into a tirade about the restaurant world’s “labor problem.” “None of us can get enough good cooks!” he exclaimed, by way of explanation. Between 2000 and 2006, only a handful of high-end restaurants — Lespinasse, Meigas, Quilty’s — have closed, and there has been an avalanche of major openings: Robuchon, Ramsay, Per Se, Masa, Craft, Del Posto, Morimoto, A Voce, the Modern, Lever House, Buddakan, Cafe Gray, Alto — the list goes on and on. “And it’s not just the massive boom of restaurants,” Adam Platt tells us. “They also have to be either bigger, or chefs have to open multiple places, so that they can enjoy the economies of scale they need to compete.”

Marco Canora: "I put up with a lot of shit." »

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