A breakdown of Jeffrey Chodorow’s long-awaited, just-posted first response to Frank Bruni’s recent reviews:
• First line: not entirely coherent. “Fortunately, (or maybe unfortunately in the case of Robert's) I didn't have to follow Frank to either Momofuku Ssam Bar or Robert’s; I have already been to both of them.” We think he means he’s already been to both restaurants because he likes them. A generous (or ungenerous) opening.
• Barely masking his bitterness, he weakly endorses David Chang — “certainly a talented chef” — then seems to suggest that Chang is lame for getting nervous before the review came down.
• It’s not a review of Robert’s Steakhouse — apparently it’s a “so called” review.
• Slams Bruni for the “brief portion” of the Robert’s write-up where he “actually addressed the food.”
• Great line: “Not to beat a dead cow here ”
• Even better line: “Frank’s Food for Thought: Do boobs go better with steak than swords?” (Jeffrey’s Food for Thought: Frank Bruni is gay.)
Summary: We would’ve appreciated more detail, but let’s give the guy some time — he’ll find his voice yet. Not to beat a dead cow? More, please.
Following Frank [Cho-Do-Blog]