Sam Mason Joins a Molecular Secret Society

Three mad scientists: from left, Sam Mason, Wylie Dufresne, and Will Goldfarb.Photo: Melissa Hom

Welcome to the latest installment of the Launch, where Sam Mason, former pastry chef at wd-50, relates the ups and downs of preparing to open Tailor, the swanky restaurant and lounge coming together at 525 Broome Street.

I just got out of a seminar on progressive cookery. Herv This, who invented the term molecular gastronomy, was there, as well as a few other scientists. I was listening along with about 50 other people: Wylie [Dufresne], Paul Liebrandt, Johnny Iuzzini from Jean Georges, Daniel Humm from Eleven Madison Park. It was a real community. Theres even going to be a name: the Experimental Cuisine Collective. Were all going over to Room 4 Dessert after this. Will Goldfarbs a great pastry chef. His idea for supplying desserts to other restaurants is pretty brilliant. I couldnt do the consulting work he does, though. I cant let things out of my reach. Its just so hard for me mentally and emotionally.

The space is coming along. Im going down there tomorrow. Were putting in the wood ceilings, and the directional lighting is even better than I anticipated. You can dim everything so its very seductive. And the staircase architect is coming this week, to lay out the grand staircase between the two floors. I havent been able to get the equipment yet, because the tiles arent down yet, but weve figured out what were getting. Theyre big and wont hurt my back with an uneven, grouted surface. We had to adjust the pass-through; it was a little too close to the doorway. And tomorrow, we have to finalize just what the menu is going to look like, which means that I have to figure out just how many dishes there are going to be. Theres a lot to think about. But right now Im going to head over to Wills place.