Andrew Carmellini Wants to Stir the Melting Pot

AC is looking to rock the USA.Photo: Patrick McMullan
“I want to do something with American food beyond comfort stuff. My name is Carmellini, and I’m from Cleveland; I mean, ethnic food is in the vernacular of American cooking. It’s part of American cooking. So we’d have really good fried chicken, good biscuits, pulled pork, but also fish tacos, Thai dishes, pierogis — stuff that has become part of our food in this country.” Carmellini sees this dream restaurant, which as yet has no name and is still in the earliest stages of conception, as a two-tiered operation. The front would be open all day and take no reservations, and the back would be more composed and high-end. But right now, it’s the food, he tells us, that has him really absorbed: “I have pages and pages of menu formats and ideas,” he says.