Dear Grub Street,
I am e-mailing you in a last, desperate attempt to find information about brunch at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. The Web boasts scores of reviews on the dinner menu, but I find not one mention of the merit of brunch, a menu, nothing.
We asked Adam Platt, who has in fact been there for brunch. He was exceedingly happy with the experience. “I actually enjoyed Robuchon better at brunch than for dinner,” he says. “The basic construct of the place is confused: Robuchon wants it to be a casual bar but had to add tables because it’s in a luxury hotel, so you don’t know, especially at night, if it’s meant to be casual or the very fanciest sort of restaurant. But the contradictions are less apparent during the day. That’s when you want to eat at a bar, and you also tend to order less, which is appropriate given how rich and expensive the food is. The menu, though it has most of the items from dinner, is simplified, and clears up some of the confusion from the overelaborate one they have at night. And the restaurant, as a whole, is looser, more peaceful, quieter, and has more light. I had a much better time there when I went for brunch.”
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