David Changs tenure as the culinary It boy may have reached its apogee with his James Beard Award, but apparently no one told Bon Apptit. The soup savant got the mag's Chef of the Year prize, lauding him for dispensing with the folderol of fine dining: on any given night, [Ssm Bar] is packed with high-society New Yorkers, hipsters, chefs, and celebrities, all perched on backless stools, loading Berkshire pork into Asian style burritos, and sipping Japanese beer with not a sommelier in sight. How about a busboy?
Saveur devotes itself to the food of Chicago, which might seem to be of marginal interest to us, except for the fact that the whole issue is mouthwateringly beautiful, with intelligent writing and a laudable effort to capture the citys spirit. Definitely worth reading.
That isnt the case so much in this months Food & Wine, which is pretty much a big collection of recipes. (Not that theres anything wrong with that.) The one standout feature is a profile of a Brooklyn glassblower who, when not creating bowls and vases for good New York restaurants, cooks pizzas for himself in his glass oven.
* Correction: the Gourmet issue described above, and the one currently in stores, is the September, not the October issue.