The food news in this week’s issue concerns the simple, the elegant, and the obvious. A guy in Brooklyn tries to raise his food in his backyard. Adam Platt respondes to locavore earnestness by battening down with a box of Oreos. Two Italian restaurants have opened with unambitious, utterly familiar menus, and he likes one of them, Bar Stuzzichini, more than the other, Gemma, which was lucky to escape with a single star. Another Italian restaurant, Accademia di Vino, specializes in grilled pizza, good pasta, and lots of wine, which pleases the Insatiable Critic. In this week’s Openings, Alex Ureña gives up on foam, and another guy in Brooklyn opens a sandwich shop highlighted by a turkey sandwich with potato chips in it. Resto chef Ryan Skeen enjoyed the onion and tomato app at Peter Luger, and the bacon too, so he thought to make a recipe out of all three for In Season. And finally, the city gets three new choices for the age-old conundrum “coffee, tea, or milk.” It’s that kind of week at New York.
My Empire of Dirt
Local Shmocal: Our Critic Weighs in on the Latest Wave of Foodie Correctness
The Virtues of Simplicity (Bar Stuzzichini & Gemma)
The Insatiable Critic: Accademia de Vino
Openings: Pamplona, Papa Lima Sandwiches, Kingswood, Sammy’s Halal
In Season: Heirloom Tomato Salad with Sweet Onions and Grilled Bacon
