A Voce’s New Pastry Chef Is Homegrown

Josh Gripper

Joshua Gripper: local boy makes good.Photo courtesy of A Voce

Theres a new, high-powered young dessert chef in town. And get this hes homegrown! His name is Joshua Gripper, and his new boss, A Voces Andrew Carmellini, vouches for him thusly: Hes the shit. Gripper, a 27-year-old Queens native, has worked with Carmellini at Caf Boulud and is also a member of A.C.s hip-hop combo, the Crown. Primarily, though, hes said to be a talented technician with a simpatico sensibility and eight years of classical training. So what is he doing at A Voce?

Theres a misconception about what you can do with Italian desserts, Gripper says. They say its very limited, but you can definitely take it to another level. You can find his desserts on the menu at A Voce already, including a chocolate budino (pudding) with port-roasted figs and thyme sorbetti, and a honey-crisp-apple coppa, whose bottom level consists of limoncello gelatina with roasted apples and a butternut-squash zabaglione. Gripper, who comes to A Voce from DB Bistro Moderne, replaces April Robinson, who is bound for Spain.