Let No Scone Go Unclotted

Tea & Sympathy

Bucking up in the face of a clotted-cream shortage.Photo: Shanna Ravindra

Are we in the midst of a clotted-cream crisis? Nicky Perry, owner of Tea & Sympathy, believes so. She just learned from her supplier, Epicure, that an entire shipping container of clotted cream made from unpasteurized milk and used in baked goods was destroyed by the FDA a few weeks ago. The reason: more foot-and-mouth disease in the U.K. She panicked. Help! she wrote back to friends in England. Whats happening?

She then fired off more e-mails to suppliers in the States, desperately trying to stockpile more. With the foot-and-mouth scare, Matt Kevill, of Epicure, says its unclear whether the next container, which is expected to arrive in New York in a few weeks, will pass the noses of FDA inspectors. Perry can't wait that long. Without clotted cream, scones are just not the same, she says. Without clotted cream, were screwed. Our sentiments exactly! But dont despair just yet. Entela Iliriani of Br-bo-ne makes Balkan-style clotted cream every night at the restaurant (from, she would have you know, pasteurized milk) and serves it with meatballs and red-pepper pure. Geoffrey Gray