So why do the chefs like it? “You really taste the grain in it. And it’s really porous, so it gets the sauce. Sometimes you see dried pasta that’s so shiny, and the sauce won’t stick to it. That never happens with Setaro,” says Odette Fada of San Domenico. Michael White of Alto and L’Impero loves Setaro’s variety of weird shapes: “It’s fabulous, and there are so many kinds of it. The paccheri, which is a kind of big, smooth rigatoni, is really hot right now, especially in Italy, but I especially like the candele, a long hollow pasta you have to break up by hand.” Of course, if you want any Setaro, you’ll have to schlep to Chelsea Market, and Ronzoni is two for one at our neighborhood C-Town but the next time we’re at Buonnitalia we’re definitely stocking up on the stuff.
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