Riding the V Line: A Turkish Oasis at Sip Sak

We're riding the B and V from Coney Island all the way to Forest Hills, jumping off frequently to rave about our favorite restaurants and food stores near the subway.

This weeks location is 53rd and Lex, the Vs last stop in Manhattan. Its delis and hotels everywhere you look, and it doesnt get much better as you head east on 53rd Street. But hang a right on Second Avenue, and pop into Sip Sak, Orhan Yegens one-of-a-kind take on Turkish fast food.

But is it really fast food? Celery root in olive oil, crispy breks filled with bubbling goat cheese, vivid cold leeks and carrots and thats only the appetizers. Yegen, when hes there, inevitably descends upon us with assurances of his greatness and the supremacy of Turkish food over all nationalities, but its the food that girds his spiel. As long as were eating that simple, perfect, ridiculously inexpensive food, were happy to nod in assent. Exhibit number two is the doner kebab, which, when served with Yegens hot yogurt sauce, is the only real rival to Yatagans lamby supremacy. And let us not forget the fine lamb chops and short ribs, which we managed gnaw on before we returned to the subway, sated and happy, with Yegens not-unjustified boasting ringing in our ears.

How are you supposed to enjoy your lamb chops after all of this?Photo: Melissa Hom

Related: Dog Food! Idiots! and Other Sweet Nothings From Orhan Yegen