Ilili Makes An Enemy in Steve Cuozzo; Bruni Picks on Grayz

Though the food sounded pretty good at Ilili, the place treated Steve Cuozzo so badly that the Cuozz was forced to pay them back with an atomic review — one that sounds richly deserved. [NYP]

In one of his silliest reviews, Frank Bruni goes on for half the article complaining that restaurants don't always fit in neat categories, then punishes Grayz for it with a blistering one-star review. Odd. [NYT]

Bruni's mini-review in Dining Briefs is much more logical and succinct: “That’s Belcourt: the predictable made surprising; comfort with a wink.” Meanwhile, on the undercard, Peter Meehan was mostly pleased with Graffiti, despite its minute size, and Marian Burros not so happy with Lucy of Gramercy. [NYT]

Paul Adams find in the tiny, cramped room and "toy-sized" kitchen at Graffiti one of the most impressive debuts he's written about in a while; the writeup is almost mouthwatering at times. [NYS]

What did Market Table do to piss off Robert Sietsema? In a rare upscale jaunt, the Voice's intrepid critic comes down on the place for crimes against Haute Barnyard ethics and its own original press release. [VV]

Restaurant Girl is impressed with the solid-state construction of Shorty's.32's comfort foods, and says so in her two-star review. [NYDN]

Hidden kaiseki gem Kyo-Ya, in the East Village, is made to sound pretty good in Leo Carey's review, which praises the unassuming place for its seriousness and authenticity. [NYer]

Ryan Sutton is the first critic to go to town on Ilili's $10 falafel and finds it — wait for it, wait for it — “no tastier than the cheaper kebabs or shawarmas I've tried in Queens…” Dévi does even worse, getting hammered for a lamb chop that was “nearly raw,” short ribs with a “mucky, murky tamarind glaze,” and calf's brains that were “funky and chunky.” Sutton is getting tougher. [Bloomberg]

Randall Lane gives three stars (of six, mind you) to Back Forty, but the review makes the place sound really, really terrible; no zero-star review could be less appetizing. [TONY]