We aren’t the biggest Peter Luger fans in the world, and if the truth be known, we weren’t that high on the late Gage and Tollner, either. But the one thing you could always say for Brooklyn’s steakhouses was that they were their own, forged of the borough’s weird character and fractious personalities. But soon that will disappear too, chased away by Morton’s, Houston’s, and all the other trans-Hudson chains that have colonized New York. Will a Chipotle someday run the Red Hook ball fields? It’s all too depressing to think about.