Ozersky: Now, Platt, what do you make of this business of Charlie Trotter threatening to come to New York?
Platt: Trotter’s a great chef. But if he’s going to succeed in New York, or San Francisco, of Dubuque, for that matter, he’s going to have to be around. He’s going to have to spend all his time cooking in New York. This is a fickle market, and there are many evil critics waiting in the weeds.
Ozersky: And you most evil of all. But even when these out-of-town chefs are here, often the food is strictly from hunger. Look at Tim Love’s restaurant. Or for that matter, look at the mixed reception Fabio Trabocchi got at the new Fiamma.
Platt: Texas Tim Love was just overmatched. The Trabocchi is clearly talented, but it’s not really his restaurant, and you get the feeling he’s doing everything on the fly. As for the jet-setting divas like Ramsay and Robuchon, they jet in, they jet out. Their operations are less like restaurants and more like high end, haute cuisine franchises. This is a tough town, Cutty. You’ve got to shell out the big money for rent, then you have big lumbering dimwits like you and me trolling through.
Ozersky: I know, that can’t be fun. Even our homegrown chefs dread our appearance. But I think it’s harder for the out-of-town ones, because their creations overawe their hometown brethren and then fall flat here.
Platt: Let me say this for the grand out-of-towners. There’s too much a sense that the chefs have to come here, that it’s their duty to play in New York. In the end, for most of them, it’s a trap.
Ozersky: So what should they do? Not come?
Platt: If I were them, and I had a successful restaurant elsewhere, I would not come. Times have changed. I’m pained to admit it, but in this egalitarian, greenmarket-oriented restaurant economy, you don’t have to have New York on your résumé to be a star.
Ozersky: The hell you don’t! I don’t care how many “best of the Great Lakes” awards you get. If you haven’t brought it here, you’re playing AA ball.
Platt: You’re too myopic, my ursine friend! Great Lakes?!?! They’d get butchered here anyways. But there are plenty of successful chefs in places like San Francisco, Portland, and Los Angeles who don’t come to NYC. I don’t see Mr. Puck setting up shop in Times Square!
Ozersky: Give him time! But maybe you’re right, Platty. I am perhaps somewhat chauvinistic in my attitudes.
Platt: But you’re not wrong! The poor saps keep coming! Look at that poor Japanese gentleman and Wakiya. He’s trying to cook Japanese-Chinese food for a bunch of confused hip-hop fashion victims. The results have been grimly predicable.
Ozersky: Okay, now I feel better.
Most Viewed Stories
Here’s the Much-Hyped 2015 ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ List
Looking for Lynsi: On the Trail of In-N-Out’s Faith-Loving, Drag-Racing, Notoriously Reclusive President
All About Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca, the ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Winner
IHOP Is Rolling Out a Creepy New Logo
The Ultimate Guide to Where to Eat at Rockaway Beach This Summer
Latest News from Grub StreetWhat Are Your Burning Food Questions for Adam Platt?
Our critic is doing a Facebook Q&A.Amy’s Kitchen’s Will Open Its First Drive-Through This Summer
The frozen-food company will make veggie burgers and pizzas to order.Underwest Donuts Adds a New Flavor to Its All-Star Repertoire
The "Carwash" is plain, glazed, and totally classic.IHOP Is Rolling Out a Creepy New Logo
It's supposed to get customers to smile.The Silicon Valley Race to Build a Fake-Meat Burger That Just Might Save the World
What would the world look like without meat, or at least the meat we’ve always known?KFC Is Super Sensitive About Those Mutant Chicken Rumors
It has filed a lawsuit against three companies in China.All About Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca, the ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Winner
The chef is credited as the first to use an immersion circulator.The Ultimate Guide to Where to Eat at Rockaway Beach This Summer
Tacos, arepas, lobster rolls, and alcoholic ice pops.Looking for Lynsi: On the Trail of In-N-Out’s Faith-Loving, Drag-Racing, Notoriously Reclusive President
She's been called the youngest female billionaire in America. She owns one of the country's most beloved burger chains. Yet she remains completely shrouded in mystery.Here’s the Much-Hyped 2015 ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ List
El Celler de Can Roca bumped Noma to win the top honor.
Pig Beach opens for the summer season on Wednesday.Brooklyn Biergarten Proudly Becomes a ‘Breastfeeding Safe Zone’
Black Forest Brooklyn is part of a larger movement to eradicate the taboo.The FDA Could Ban Trans Fats As Early As Mid-June
You have Bloomberg to thank.Weed-Infused K-Cups Take Washington by Storm
Wake, push a button, and bake.A Hooters Waitress Donated One of Her Kidneys to a Dying Customer
"I said, 'Well I have two kidneys, do you want one of mine?'"Critical Darling Fredrik Berselius Is Finally Opening an Aska Follow-Up
His new restaurant will be located in south Williamsburg.The Department of Health Doesn’t Want Dogs on Restaurant Patios
But it looks like the bill will still pass.This Is the Story of the Hamburger
Its rise from a lowly patty of chopped meat to the aristocracy of foods; its charismatic and delicious descendants; the arguments it inspires — over ethics and blends and tastes; and Silicon Valley’s attempt to replace it with a meat that is not meat at all.The 50 Most Important Burgers in New York
This town is flooded with high-ambition meat sandwiches. But which is the very best?There Are 100 of Dan Barber’s Veggie Burgers Left at Shake Shack
Get a move on it.
He also had choice words for Heidi Klum.Sessanta, Inside the SIXTY Soho Hotel, Looks Like a Great Go-To Italian Spot
John McDonald's newest restaurant opens on Monday.Anheuser-Busch Stopped Making Beer to Bottle Water for Flood Victims
The company just shipped 50,000 cans of drinking water to Texas and Oklahoma.A Restaurant Faked That Video of a Waitress Smacking a Handsy Customer
"We knew that people like to watch fights."Taylor Swift and Calvin Harris Dine at the Spotted Pig; Dwyane Wade Stops by Junior’s
This week's Celebrity Settings.Someone’s Creating an Official ‘Puff, the Magic Dragon’–Themed Restaurant
The same person who brought you the Rainforest Café, in fact.A Juice War Is Engulfing the East Village
One shop owner isn't happy that a local chain is invading his turf.Naomi ‘Taza’ Davis Knows Pizza Is Even Better on the Second Day
"I can’t give up sugar! Absolutely no way!"Milk Bar’s ‘Ballpark Bomb’ Is the Craziest Snack of the Summer
It's filled with sliced hot dogs.Chocolatiers Are Using Genetics to Identify the Best Beans
Is fair-trade, small-batch chocolate worth more than its fancy packaging?
Many restaurants have pledged to donate to the Global Fund to Fight AIDS.Has America Run Out of Foods to Turn Into Straws?
Experts in the field think so.Chefs Are Banding Together to Take Striped Bass Off Menus
There's a scarcity of the fish right now.Patrick Stewart Calls Out People Who Don’t Eat Their Pizza Crust
He inspired a heated debate.Ben & Jerry’s Seeks to Save the Planet Through Ice Cream
A new flavor, Save Our Swirled, will bring awareness to climate change.Is Congress on the Cusp of Making Alcohol Cheaper?
A new bill would reduce the liquor tax.Science Can Now Make Pretty Much Any Fruit Bigger
Geneticists say that they can rewire the genetic sequences of plants.MilkMade’s First-Ever Ice-Cream Shop Opens in Brooklyn on Friday
The subscription-based service has earned a cult following.A Customer Left His Waitress a $2,000 Tip for Literally No Reason at All
Isn't that lovely?McDonald’s Is Giving Its Burger Buns a Needed Makeover
The move is part of a broader plan to recommit to "hotter, tastier food."
Hormel will pay $775 million for Applegate Farms.This Wine Bar Makes NYC’s Most Carefully Considered New Cold Brew
How about some single-estate heirloom coffee beans and a quick whip of raisin-infused, organic milk?Anthony Bourdain Adds ‘Media Mogul’ to His Ever-Expanding Résumé
He's investing in Roads & Kingdoms, a travel site.The Tricky Business of Revamping a Historic Restaurant for a New Audience
"If we hadn't taken it over, that neon sign wouldn't be hanging," Mario Carbone says.How Clearly Canadian’s Surprising Comeback Actually Happened
The transparent soft-drink will launch a second round of crowdfunding before hitting store shelves next year.Dan Barber’s Veggie Burger Will Be Available at Shake Shack for One Day Only
It was last seen at the wastED pop-up at Blue Hill.Depressing New Study Says Living on a Loud Block Can Make You Gain Weight
Great news for New Yorkers.Watch Blue Smoke’s Jean-Paul Bourgeois Talk Burgers and the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party
Grub's Sierra Tishgart spoke to him for 'CBS This Morning.'Pizza Hut Shoved 8 Meat Pies Into Its Crust
The new item is only available in Australia, though.Watch a Grope-y Restaurant Customer Get Exactly What’s Coming to Him
A female waitress knocks his lights out.