We Haven't Had That Spirit Here Since 1968

The good old days.Illustration by Wes Duvall

Though it may be New York's 40th anniversary, 1968 was a rough year: the assassinations of Martin Luther King Jr. and Robert Kennedy, the Tet Offensive, riots in Newark and Detroit. But one area no one could complain about was food in New York, as this weeks anniversary issue attests. Gael Greene, who was then as now a potent force in the citys restaurant culture, conjures up one of the eras most vivid restaurant scenes at Orsini's, complete with a cast ranging from Yul Brynner to Porfirio Rubirosa, the eras greatest playboy. Rob and Robin, scoping out the citys treats circa 1968, find everything from Japanese raw-fish sandwiches called sushi to quenelles at La Cte Basque. And, in a fitting tribute to an era when fine dining meant French food, a recipe for ze Souffl at La Grenouille.

Amore for Everyone
What Were Eating
Ze Souffl [NYM]