David Chang never claims to be a mastermind; he’s just treated that way by the food press. Or maybe he is a mastermind, and that’s all part of the plan. We can never tell. Anyway, he couldn’t be much more frank than he was with Time Out New York today: “Everyone thinks I’m bullshitting when I say this: We have no idea what the fuck we’re doing.” But if that were true, would he really say it? We still can’t figure it out.