What Goes on Behind Momofuku Ko's Closed Doors

For the record, you're supposed to stir this all up and eat it like the divine mess it's meant to be.Photo: Don Lee


While you wait with extremely bated breath for the Ko reservation Website to go live (don't go thinking the general public is going to eat in there anytime before Wednesday), a snapshot of what was going on behind the heavily armored doors, at least for a brief moment last night: Occupying some of the fourteen precious seats were New York's "sexiest chef" Johnny Iuzzini (and date), Shorty's.32 star Josh Eden (and date), and former Bloomberg critic and current GQ blogger Alan Richman with Time Out New York food editor Gabriella Gershenson (presumably not on a date). Every other minute, a curious passerby outside would stop and press his nose against the exterior's ornate metalwork and just awkwardly peer inside for 30 seconds, trying his hardest to see something through the obscured windows. It was pure shamelessness, New Yorkers gawking like tourists, but who could blame them? The place looks like a dungeon from the outside. And all that attention no doubt made the lucky few on the inside feel all the more special, like prized little angelfish in Chang's velvet aquarium. Jessica Coen