Andres Glasner of Waverly Inn Highly Recommends Siberia

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"They cut us off because were shaving so many truffles."Photo: Melissa Hom

Memphis-born Andres Glasner wasnt trained to massage celebrity egos when he joined the opening team at the Waverly Inn. He says the emphasis was on service. Nevertheless, he happens to have provided that service to a Whos Who of A-listers though hes not allowed to say just who! We tried to fish some details out of the actor-in-training.

Do you get crazy high-maintenance requests from celebrities?
If anything, its kind of like the opposite theres nothing out of the ordinary. People for the most part know what they want when they get here.

How often is Graydon Carter there? Does he work the room like an Elaine Kaufman?
He comes in a couple times a week maybe once a week when Im working. If he sees someone he knows, obviously hell say hello and talk and chat.

Do you still pretty much have to know him or someone in his office to snag a table?
The best way would be to walk in. As far as calling someone, I have no idea about that. If youre in the neighborhood, just walk on in. Were a neighborhood restaurant.

Do your friends badger you to get them a table?
Theyll say, Is it okay if I can come in a certain night. I tell them to walk in in the early afternoon, and they have no problem getting a table. At times, weve been busy that particular night they got a table two days later or the day after. It all depends on how were booked.

How hands-on is the matre d, Emil Varda. He sounds like quite a character on the Waverly Inn blog.
Hes definitely hands-on. He hires everyone, and hes the head manager and part owner as well. Hes there daily, nightly everything that happens, he knows.

Anne Hathaway is supposed to go there a lot. Are there house fixtures who have pretty much earned permanent tables by this point?
No, but that we dont talk about. We dont talk about any type of clientele.

Do people put up a fuss when theyre seated in Siberia?
For the most part, in my experience, no. Were lucky in that respect, because it makes our job easier to not have to deal with that.

Whats the best seat in the house?
Now its better (in my opinion) in the conservatory you have the plants, the great lighting, the fireplace, and the big tree we have in the back. Most people now want to sit back here.

But isnt that Siberia?
That is what was reported ten months ago. I have no idea why theyd call a garden Siberia.

Do people ever tell you youre skimping on the truffles that you shave over the macaroni and cheese?
Were really generous here with the truffles. Usually they cut us off because were shaving so many truffles. They say, Thats enough.

Are there additions, as you call the specials, that people always ask after?
On occasion, we will replace an item that was on the menu before we did that with the short ribs. We replaced them with lamb shank. Of course, as soon as we did, everyone wanted short ribs. So we bring that back as an addition for the night.

Does chef John deLucie work the floor a lot?
Hes on the floor all the time. When we present a plate of mac 'n' cheese to the customer, hes shaving the truffles. You can imagine how many times hes running from kitchen and table