Ducasse Gets His Three Stars; a British Tribute to Maze

Alain Ducasse's war to win New York seems to be working: Frank Bruni gives Adour three stars, calling it a qualified victory. Its not through-and-through rapturous, but its first-rate. [NYT]
Related: L'Obsession [NYM]

Maze by Gordon Ramsay comes in for a thoroughgoing appreciation by Bloomberg's Richard Vines, a Brit who knows Ramsay's restaurants the way New Yorkers know Mario Batali's. [Bloomberg]

Jay Cheshes sees in Elettaria a checklist of downtown tropes mustachioed bartenders, swank design, of-the-moment ingredients but it's lacking somewhat in the way the food is conceived and executed, in a three- (of six) star review. [TONY]

Alan Richman loves Terroir, both for its brilliant wine program and for the legions of girls there: "The few guys who have discovered this place dont appear particularly suave, leaving plenty of opportunities for the rest of us." Ew. [GQ]

Peter Meehan is an arepas man through and through, so his love letter to Shachis in Williamsburg is definitely a ringing endorsement, even among fellow arepa people. [NYT]

The Greek-Turkish Agnanti in Bay Ridge was too historically interesting for Sietsema to pass up, but the only thing that seems to have stood out there was the stewed rooster. [VV]

The room is lame, and a few of the mains off, but Paul Adams is clearly turned on by the food at Olana, in the best review the restaurant has gotten yet. [NYS]

Allen & Delancey had pretty much come out of the review cycle unscathed until Lauren Collins's review, this week, which finds the food merely competent and indistinct. She loves the room, though, like everybody else. [NYer]