The city’s ramen rivalries grow hotter each day, and so yesterday Gridskipper did the service of laying out their picks, in order, for the best Japanese-noodle broths. Number one with a bullet is Hakata Ippudo, the East Village newcomer created by the so-called King of Ramen. As far as Gridskipper is concerned, the title is well earned, but then none of the comments on the various ramen houses are especially pointed. (“Setagaya's specialty is shio ramen (‘salt’ broth) — some think it's the best in the city.”) What may be, however, is the absence of the most famous ramen bar of all, Momofuku, from the list.
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