No less a personage than Eric Ripert spilled the beans on the great unspoken secret of the organic movement: A lot of the food tastes bad. Speaking to an audience of trendsetters at the PSFK New York conference last week, the Le Bernardin chef said, “Organic and sustainable doesn’t mean that your product is good. An organic cheese ten years ago was inedible, like rubber.” Of course, the Ripper also said that with technology on the march, sustainable food will soon be as good as it is virtuous. But it isn’t yet, not always; and only a man of the Ripper’s caliber could get away with saying so in public.
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