When it opens in the former Black Pearl space in Park Slope on Monday, Bussaco will be the latest in New Brooklyn Cuisine (NBC) — and this place is so Brooklyn that the communal table is made from white oak salvaged from Prospect Park. Beat that! Chef Matthew Schaefer is embracing the term, though he also uses plain ol’ “New York cuisine” to describe dishes influenced by his time at Judson Grill under Bill Telepan (they get a touch of refinement thanks to Schaefer’s recent stint at Le Bernardin).
The chicken and waffles, for instance, are far from what you’ll find at Little House on Clinton: The brined, buttermilk-fried poussin is inspired by his southern wife's recipe (it’s his favorite thing to eat). Another personal touch: The pastrami duck breast (with pumpernickel-bread stuffing) comes with sauerkraut made from his mom’s recipe of onions, apples, duck bacon, and caraway.
Bussaco's owner, Scott Carney —a former partner at Gotham Bar and Grill and the Tonic in Chelsea — is also a seasoned sommelier whose wine list shies away from massive markups. There’s also a full bar, and in a week, an accompanying menu that will include a lobster roll, burger, and homemade pickle plate. Menu items for now:
Poached Egg and Surrey Ham Frisée (salad, grain mustard vinaigrette)
Crab Chowder (Old Bay puffs)
The Freshest Mozzarella (heirloom tomatoes, red onion, croutons)
Grilled Hawaiian Prawns (chick pea purée, wax bean salad)
Wild Salmon and Gravlax (tartare, home-made pickles, chopped egg, potato dill toast)
Organic Salmon (sauce choron, haricot vert, crispy potatoes)
Wild Striped Bass and Manila Clams (Tuscan kale, lemon-herb broth)
Sweet Potato Tortellini (Maitake mushrooms, mustard greens, brown butter)
Pastrami Duck Breast (mom’s sauerkraut, black bread stuffing)
Beef Bavette (braised sweetbreads, Yorkshire pudding)
Fried Poussin (collard greens, waffles)
Slow Roast Pork and Crispy Skin Hominy Succotash
Bussaco, 833 Union St., nr. Seventh Ave.; 718-857-8828