Gordon the Great

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This week, Alan Richman chastised Michelin for again awarding two stars to Gordon Ramsay at the London, but another GQ writer, Tom Carson, asks, Who needs Michelin when youve got Nielsen? Carson thinks the chefs enduring appeal lies partly in the fact that he isnt your typical hoity-toity gourmand: Its entertaining to watch Ramsay turn one of the simper sets most exclusive refuges bon apptit and so forth into a way for villagers to storm the castle. His own eateries may be high-end enough that the day I shell out to eat in one is the day they put sauced flying pig on the menu, but one of his great saving graces is that he isnt a snob. [GQ]