Grub StreetNew York

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Chef-owner Eric Ripert has parlayed fish savvy into fine-dining stars for Le Bernardin. But what does the city's most famous poissonier have to say about street food? We took Ripert on a tour of Manhattan’s best taquerias — including La Esquina, Pinche Taqueria, Mercadito Cantina, Pampano Taqueria, and Toloache — and asked him to rate pescado tacos on a ten-point system for taste, five for presentation, and five awarded at his discretion. During the tour, Ripert toyed with recipes for his own tacos, unfortunately too late for his new book, On the Line. We can only hope there’s a Lowbrow-Brilliant venture in his future. For now, click through the slideshow to see which fish taco swims to the top.