Gael Greene Confesses She Doesn’t Really Get Grant Achatz


If you found Gael Greenes and Pete Wellss reports on the $1,500 Achatz/Keller dinner a little too, well, reportorial, Gael now has a more food-focused assessment on her blog. Make no mistake, she is not a fan of the out-of-towner: I want to like Grant Achatzs food. Truly I do. I dont want to seem uptight or an incurable old fogey. But perhaps I am. Making something edible out of unlikely components or something inedible out of a classic like Achatzs lamb with fennel and Pernod alongside a hot rock covered with coffee grounds, dried citrus peel and spices, three of them in three bowls on the table coffee-scented air is no guarantee of pleasure. Indeed, Greene didnt take as much pleasure in the dinner as youd think: Was it once-in-a-lifetime? More so on paper perhaps than in the eating.

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