Sneak Peek at Co.’s Pizza

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A Margherita pie fresh from the Earthstone gas oven. Photo: Courtesy of Slice

Jim Lahey's new pizzeria, Co. , should be open by December 9, but Slice's Adam Kuban got a preview and declared that "Lahey's making a pie that's more Franny's than Una Pizza Napoletana, but it's easily in that league of awesome." Per Kuban's pizza porn, the pies at Co. are small, with a puffy crust and mostly classic ingredient combos. The Dom, a Margherita pie with Pecorino, is a tribute to Dom DeMarco of Di Fara's. There's a Boscaiolo pie with mushroom, sausage, and onion; the Popeye is covered in leafy greens; and the Margherita banks on imported mozzarella. Given Lahey's background at Sullivan St. Bakery, it's no surprise that Kuban was impressed with the flavorful crust, "thanks to a dough that was left to rise 24 hours, developing a yeasty tang," plus a sprinkling of a salt and flour mixture on the dough before being topped and hitting the oven. Lahey says he may also burn wood in the Earthstone gas oven to "aromatize" what crisps up inside.

First Taste: A Pizza Preview of Jim Lahey's Upcoming Pizzeria, Co. [Slice]
Earlier: Bread Man Calculates Pie [NYM]