Bouley Succeeds With Bruni, Cuozzo; Fatty Crab Too Hot for Gael Greene

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The new Bouley is a labor of obvious and obsessive love, Frank Bruni rhapsodizes, a thrilling blast from the gaudy past, a reminder of how much pleasure can be had just from being tucked into such opulent chambers and attended with such formal manners. [NYT]
Related: David Bouley, Culinary Cartographer [NYM]

[Bouleys] setting, loving and snoot-free service and a modern-French menu that dares not to be daring make for an experience so transporting, so conducive to dressing up just for funs sake it's almost quaint, gushes Steve Cuozzo. [NYP]

Bouley exists in its own fantastical bubble: a place where the Dow still surges and expense-account spending never dried up, writes Jay Cheshes, who deems the restaurant a B-list runner up to special-occasion restaurants like Jean Georges or Daniel. [TONY]

The sliders are fabulous, but the eponymous dish at Fatty Crab UWS is not worth the effort for Gael Greene. Watch out for the heat factor, too. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: A First Look at Fatty Crab

At Corton, [Paul] Liebrandts cooking is the culinary equivalent of wordplayan intellectual exercise cloaked in amusement, says Lauren Collins. [NYer]
Related: Cortons Menu, Illustrated

Robert Sietsema finds a proper izakaya at Rockmeisha on Barrow Street: As befits a place seeking to redefine Japanese bar food, the menu wanders aimlessly in pursuit of perfect dishes to go with alcohol. [VV]

Danyelle Freeman is surprised, and then not, that theres a good French bistro in Harlem: Chez Lucienne is a really good find. And chef [Thomas] Obaton is asking to be taken seriously. [NYDN]