Chefs From Little Charlie’s Clam Bar Resurface in Brooklyn


Wed like to add to Pocket Changes list of late-night dining options, if we may. Desys Clam Bar has gotten zilch press attention since opening a few months ago, maybe because its located in a bit of a dead zone in East Williamsburg that nevertheless is an unlikely pocket of late-night bites: Within a two-block radius you have Le Barricou (serving till midnight on weekdays and 2 a.m. on weekends), Huckleberry Bar (serving till 4 a.m.), Manna (serving 24/7, forever!), and finally Desys, serving garlic-and-butter-laden Italian-American classics till 1 a.m. Think of the latter as Williamsburgs answer to Umbertos Clam House (which serves till 4 a.m.). Actually, both chefs are 30-year veterans of Little Charlies Clam Bar near Little Italy, and it shows in their gigantic portions (see the menu). When we dropped in at 12:30 a.m. late Tuesday night, the place was packed there were even little kids running around. The guys all had necks bigger than our thighs, the women had blonde highlights, and the scene eventually became a circus of table-to-table shouting. Other than its Spartan interior, the places downfall is that it doesnt yet have a liquor license and doesnt allow you to BYOB, but if youre ever in need of a sobering red-sauce meal (not to mention some soberingly bright lights), the bread baskets alone will do the trick.

562 Grand St., nr. Lorimer St.; 347-599-0267