Bruni Calls Macao Silly; Buttermilk Channel Too Sweet for Alan Richman

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Macao Trading Co. is a silly restaurant, says Frank Bruni: “That’s what makes it sort of fun, and that’s what keeps it from being anything more than that.” [NYT]
Related: A First Look at Macao Trading Co.

Nearly everything at Buttermilk Channel is too sweet for Alan Richman, who’s also a little old for the place. “Were I twelve years old and planning a birthday party, Buttermilk Channel is where I’d want it to be,” he writes. [Forked/GQ]
Related: Inside Buttermilk Channel

The chicken for two at 10 Downing “might be the best date dish of all time,” writes Robert Sietsema. While Jason Neroni‘s menu is too long and complicated, it does offer “some kick-ass porcine charcuterie.” [VV]

Danyelle Freeman wears jeans to the Le Cirque lounge, but eats off the dining-room menu. She recommends the tuna, the sautéed shrimp, and the crème brûlée. [NYDN]
Related: Le Cirque’s New Menus

Compass is still trying to find its way, says Jay Cheshes: “[T]he dated presentations and clunky cooking made me think mostly of bad cruise-ship fare.” [TONY]

Andrea Thompson endures flippant service at Lulu and still manages to like the food. [NYer]