The Other Critics

Delicatessen Still Taking Lumps

Photo: Noah Sheldon

Poor Delicatessen. It goes to the trouble of getting a new chef and consultant and yet can’t win friends. This week’s New Yorker (which also features a profile of cheap-wine entrepreneur Fred Franzia) finds Leo Carey stopping in: “The food isn’t really the point here. If Topshop were a restaurant, it would be this restaurant.” [NYer]

Delicatessen Still Taking Lumps