Esquire Editor Defends John Mariani

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Roughed-up food writer John Mariani gets some backup from his editor today on MenuPages Chicago. Ryan D'Agostino writes: Esquire's annual list is idiosyncratic; we don't pretend it's comprehensive or empirical. And as you point out, Esquire doesn't position John as a critic. What that means, for one thing, is that he doesn't give bad reviews; rather than evaluate every place he goes, he writes only about places he's enthusiastic about. Be sure to read the whole letter, if only to get Mariani's daiquiri recipe. [MenuPages Chicago]