Bruni Disappointed by Carmellini; Cuozzo Compares SHO Shaun Hergatt to Per Se

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Locanda Verde is “not the [Andrew] Carmellini restaurant that many of us have been waiting and hoping for, though it has plenty to recommend it,” writes a disappointed Frank Bruni. [NYT]

The best dishes at SHO Shaun Hergatt “are possessed of the same deceptively simple clarity of presentation and lightness of bearing that inform Thomas Keller’s work at Per Se,” declares Steve Cuozzo in an ecclesiastic review. [NYP]

At Marea, Michael White “is venturing into seafood and delicate crudos with an extensive seafood menu that rivals the selection at Milos and Le Bernardin,” Danyelle Freeman says. [NYDN]

George Mendes “makes a subtle — not bludgeoning — case for his culinary heritage, offering modern cooking that quietly telegraphs Lisbon, the Algarve, and the Douro wine region” at Aldea, Jay Cheshes writes. [TONY]
Related: Aldea’s Menu, Illustrated

“The food is quite good” at DBGB, “but it’s nearly impossible to order sanely, because it’s mostly protein prepared every which way,” Alan Richman says. [Forked/GQ]
Related: Daniel Boulud Shows Off DBGB Menu

“Boulud takes the somewhat courageous step of telling us what’s in most of the sausages” at DBGB, and Ryan Sutton likes the results, though he would prefer the full menu at the bar during dinner. [Bloomberg]

Michael Psilakis’s menu at Gus & Gabriel “reads like a sheltered Greek boy’s dream of how Americans eat,” according to Gael Greene. [Insatiable Critic]

At Harbour, “[s]ome juxtapositions don’t work, and occasionally you find yourself admiring virtuosity while feeling that a simpler approach might actually have produced something better,” Leo Carey says. [The New Yorker]

“Sometimes the quirky food hit the mark” at Anella, but “sometimes it bombed,” for Robert Sietsema. [VV]