Bruni Disappointed by Carmellini; Cuozzo Compares SHO Shaun Hergatt to Per Se


Locanda Verde is not the [Andrew] Carmellini restaurant that many of us have been waiting and hoping for, though it has plenty to recommend it, writes a disappointed Frank Bruni. [NYT]

The best dishes at SHO Shaun Hergatt are possessed of the same deceptively simple clarity of presentation and lightness of bearing that inform Thomas Kellers work at Per Se, declares Steve Cuozzo in an ecclesiastic review. [NYP]

At Marea, Michael White is venturing into seafood and delicate crudos with an extensive seafood menu that rivals the selection at Milos and Le Bernardin, Danyelle Freeman says. [NYDN]

George Mendes makes a subtle not bludgeoning case for his culinary heritage, offering modern cooking that quietly telegraphs Lisbon, the Algarve, and the Douro wine region at Aldea, Jay Cheshes writes. [TONY]
Related: Aldeas Menu, Illustrated

The food is quite good at DBGB, but its nearly impossible to order sanely, because its mostly protein prepared every which way, Alan Richman says. [Forked/GQ]
Related: Daniel Boulud Shows Off DBGB Menu

Boulud takes the somewhat courageous step of telling us whats in most of the sausages at DBGB, and Ryan Sutton likes the results, though he would prefer the full menu at the bar during dinner. [Bloomberg]

Michael Psilakiss menu at Gus & Gabriel reads like a sheltered Greek boys dream of how Americans eat, according to Gael Greene. [Insatiable Critic]

At Harbour, [s]ome juxtapositions dont work, and occasionally you find yourself admiring virtuosity while feeling that a simpler approach might actually have produced something better, Leo Carey says. [The New Yorker]

Sometimes the quirky food hit the mark at Anella, but sometimes it bombed, for Robert Sietsema. [VV]