In the magazine this week, Adam Platt takes on Marea, where “you can’t help feeling that the exuberant, intuitive chef [Michael White] is not entirely at home in the precise, finicky realm of fish.” Platt awards three stars even though “[f]or all its impressive, even dazzling qualities, it feels less like a labor of love than like one of ambition and duty.” On the more affordable front, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld forage for artisan bread by Matthew J. Tilden, who bakes an “ultrarustic, old-world-inspired product line” during off-hours at Toby’s Public House. Home cooks can stay away from the oven when it’s time to entertain, however, with make-ahead summer recipes from Dovetail, Elettaria, and Calexico. If the party’s in Sag Harbor, you could just drop into Cavaniola Cheese Shop; the owners now make food for takeout using local ingredients.
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