Sutton Slams Aureole; Cheshes Falls for Ryan Skeen

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At Aureole “the fare is billed as progressive American. Here’s what that means: Christopher Lee takes excellent ingredients and manipulates the flavor out of them,” complains Ryan Sutton. [Bloomberg]
Related: First Look: Aureole Will Unleash Parallel Tasting Menu on Monday
Aureole’s Parallel Peach Pairing Is Like Surf-‘n’-Turf

The menu, decor, service, and “small oddities” at The Standard Grill don't make much sense to Pete Well, but no matter: “Does it, against the odds, add up to a worthwhile restaurant? Absolutely.” [NYT]
Related: Under the High Line: Standard Grill Reveals Itself

The quality of the cooking at Allen & Delancey indicates that Ryan Skeen’s “rapidly maturing talent—his food here is far and away his most impressive to date—might soon put him in the ranks of the best cooks in New York,” writes Jay Cheshes. [TONY]
Related: Allen & Delancey’s Menu, Illustrated

At Brooklyn Star, “a decent crowd — if not the hordes foodies predicted — settles into the built-in booths each night, hungry for Joaquin Baca’s nouveau Southern comfort food—that is, square meals for the hipster set,” says Mike Peed. [The New Yorker]
Related: A First Look Inside Brooklyn Star

The hot dogs and milk shakes are great, but “the major problem at Bark isn’t overpricing; it’s overcooking,” writes Alan Richman. [Forked/GQ]
Related: First Look at Bark Hot Dogs, Bringing Artisanal Wieners to Park Slope

Room TwoE at the Pierre is “sexy, smashingly good-looking and so far, undiscovered,” declares Gael Greene, who also visits Gansevoort 69. “It seems to want to be the last bastion of working class comfort food in the desperate chic of the meat packing district.” [Insatiable Critic]
Related: First Look at Gansevoort 69, Open Today in the Former Florent Space

“Influenced by Japanese, American, and aboriginal Formosan fare, in addition to regional food from all over China, the menu at Island of Taiwan is amazing to behold,” marvels Robert Sietsema about the Bay Ridge restaurant. [VV]