In the magazine this week, the Underground Gourmet gives three stars to Fort Defiance. The café-barsoda fountainhome away from home in Red Hook, [is] currently firing on all cylinders except maybe their gas-line connection, a stumbling block that occasioned their temporary closing last week. Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfelds foraging turned up Orwashers locavore whole-wheat bread, which should compete with its venerable rye. The Robs are also tracking this weeks openings: Ardesia is a sleek wine bar with ties to Le Bernardin in Hells Kitchen.You can make a game plan for Oktoberfest with a guide to eight great beer gardens. Now in season is broccoli Spigarello, an heirloom sort of rabe that Rose Water chef Bret Macris likes to serve spiked with chile flakes and tempered with honey. And finally, if you havent been acquainted with the pleasures of chef Michael Whites pastas, Mareas special menu, called Le Collezione at the Crudo Bar, provides a perfect introductory crash course.