Owner Lisa Ford Says Pink Tea Cup Is ‘Pretty Much Done’

Photo: Shanna Ravindra

The owner of the Pink Tea Cup, Lisa Ford, has now told us more about why shes closing on January 3. First things first, dont count on a new location. Ford says shes leaving New York to figure things out, but the Raye family and the Pink Tea Cup are pretty much done at this point. (Floridian Mary Raye opened the restaurant in 1954 and passed it on to her husband, who handed it down to his niece, Lisas mother.) Ford, who has worked at the restaurant since she graduated from college and her mother installed her there as a cashier in 1989, says she was sunk by a combination of the downturn in the economy (business hadnt been the same after 9/11 but it grew worse even before the Lehman crash) and rising costs. The city is a really rough place to run a small business, what with [rises in] taxes, utilities says Ford. If you pass that on to your customers at the rate they pass it on to us, you cant stay in existence.

Ford was hit particularly hard by property-tax bills of around $16,000, a steep rent increase two years ago, and the citys recent request that she upgrade her exhaust system, not to mention rising food costs. They send you a letter saying you have 30 days to do this, 30 days to do that It all starts coming at you. Youre eating at your chunk of change and next thing you know its like, Wow. Ford adjusted by charging more and cutting hours (she says that a year ago, she upped the price of dishes by about $1), but traffic was still down. The whole idea of soul food is a lot of food for a little money so you dont want to charge all these crazy amounts (like, $20 per dish) but thats what you need to do. Especially, she says, since she didnt have a liquor license (when her uncle ran the business, he felt serving liquor would distract customers from the quality of the food; Fords mother looked into getting a license at one point but found insurance costs prohibitive).

Im disappointed, says Ford. Im the third generation. I feel a little bad that it happened on my watch.

Earlier: Pink Tea Cup Will Close After Over 50 Years