Greene Seduced by Colicchio & Sons; Sutton Doesn’t Fall for Maialino

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Tom Colicchio is MIA during Gael Greene's first visit, but that doesn't change the quality and creativity of the food at Colicchio & Sons: “All of us, the professionals and our pampered mates, are loving almost everything we’re tasting tonight,” she enthuses. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: What to Eat at Colicchio & Sons, Now Serving Capon ‘Pot au Feu’

Ryan Sutton resists Danny Meyer's siren song at Maialino: "Maialino is not a bad restaurant — Nick Anderer’s food is usually excellent — but it’s foolish to make diners abide by a very formal policy (separate menu at the bar) for a very casual establishment." [Bloomberg]
Related: A Closer Look at Maialino

"Roberta’s flawlessly echoes the pioneering spirit of Bushwick — both the neighborhood and the restaurant remain startlingly fundamental, works-in-progress," Alan Richman concludes after a Brooklyn expedition. He calls the braised lamb breast "a satisfying plate of the sort of flavorful, free-for-all cooking that Roberta’s kitchen does best." [Forked & Corked/GQ]

Diner and Marlow & Sons alumni opened Roman's in Fort Greene and stay true to the New Brooklyn Cuisine ethos. "The restaurant, under former Marlow chef Dave Gould, offers a brief daily-changing menu, and even the cocktails — one sour, one bitter — are regularly swapped," Jay Cheshes writes. "Which makes Roman’s the perfect neighborhood restaurant … for ADD diners." [TONY]

Steve Cuozzo checks in with La Mangeoire, which got a new chef last fall, and the post–Michael Psilakis Mia Dona. "Neither place is groundbreaking nor 100 percent consistent," he writes. "But Mia Dona and La Mangeoire are at their best often enough." [NYP]

Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte "faithfully mimics the [Paris] original, down to the quick turnover and the cheesy murals of canals and gondoliers. Most important, it offers the same menu," asserts Nick Paumgarten. [NYer]