The Other Critics

Sifton Adds Star to Strip House, Cuozzo Finds ‘Clunkers’ at Faustina

Sam Sifton bumps up Strip House to two stars because David Rockwell’s design has “gravitas,” the staff is “professional and attentive,” and “the food is generally marvelous, the steak often superb.” [NYT]

“There were enough big clunkers over four visits to make me wonder how consistently hands-on Conant can be in a place he runs under a management contract,” worries Steve Cuozzo about Faustina. But he admits that “most choices are fine for the price, and several would be bargains at any price.” [NYP]
Related: Faustina’s Menu, Illustrated

“Unfortunately, Colicchio seems to have become a bit sloppy in the kitchen,” complains Andrea Thompson of Colicchio & Sons. “Most everything was fine, but only that.” [NYer]
Related: What to Eat at Colicchio & Sons

Don’t expect a quick lunch at Sandwiched, warns Ed Levine. But if you take your time and order the ham and sharp cheddar (a “perfect creation”) or the turkey and gouda, it’s well worth the wait. [Serious Eats]

Adam Block “hasn’t missed a hot buzzword” at Print, a farm-to-table restaurant with its own forager. “But beyond political correctness, the food by the husband-and-wife tag team of toques — Charles and Heather Carlucci-Rodriguez — is mostly good and sometimes wonderful,” Gael Greene declares. [Insatiable Critic]

“Every experiment at Northern Spy doesn’t necessarily end well, but you’ve got to give the restaurant credit for trying,” writes Robert Sietsema. The prices are less than you’d expect, too. [VV]
Related: Inside Northern Spy

Jay Cheshes calls Recette “an ambitious West Village newcomer that replaces appetizers and entrées with too-small plates.” [TONY]
Related: First Look: Recette

Sifton Adds Star to Strip House, Cuozzo Finds ‘Clunkers’ at Faustina