This week’s magazine traces Keith McNally’s illustrious career and takes you inside his latest creation, Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria, which we’ve just learned will be slightly delayed. To tide you over until breakfast and lunch roll out on March 15, here are some morsels recently gleaned from chef Nate Appleman. (Dinner, which he says will basically mirror lunch, will kick in soon after.)
Appleman says he has created completely new food for Pulino’s, without resting on his A16 and SPQR laurels. That means, alas, there’ll be no Meatball Mondays here — but there is a meatball pizza, justified by Appleman’s desire to utilize every bit of the sides of locally raised beef he plans to butcher in-house. He’ll source them from Fleisher’s, and get his heritage Berkshire pork from Missouri’s Newman Farm, but his “everyday steak, a New York strip for the common man,” will come from Creekstone Farms via Pat LaFrieda.
And about those pizzas: Although Appleman was certified by the Neapolitan pizza police, and made his name with authentically blistered, puffy-rimmed pies at A16, Pulino’s pizza program will be headed by two women — Beth Ann Simpkins, who launched A16 in Tokyo, and Ruth Kaplan, former manager of Balthazar Bakery and a pizzaiola in her own right (at Prospect Heights’ Amorina). There will be breakfast pizza, tuna pizza, and even porchetta pizza. For a preview of what else will emerge from the wood-fired ovens (including grapefruit!), take a look at the menu.