Whither the Chinese Locavores?

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"Chinese is one of the worlds great cuisines, yet in New York, and I daresay in much of the country, it remains for the most part consigned either to great expressions of immigrant food in various Chinatowns, to touristy, kitschy environments or to delivery status." Eric Asimov wonders why Chinese restaurants haven't succumbed to the Slow Food movement. [Diner's Journal/NYT]