In the magazine this week, the Underground Gourmet files an enthusiastic review of Williamsburg's Commodore, where the "brilliantly intuitive" Stephen Tanner serves "what might be the best cheap bar food in town," including an ace take on fried chicken. Ben Mathis-Lilley samples summer's hottest beer, Belgian-style summer ales known as saisons. Romaine lettuce is in season, best served in sandwich form with a recipe from Saltie. And mark your calendars for a Southern-style feast at Aldea, when a visiting South Carolina chef takes over the kitchen for one night later this month.
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