Cheshes Compares Il Matto to Ninja; Sietsema Raves for I Sodi

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Il Matto "isnt just pushing the envelope, its tearing it up ... [it's] the most theatrical new venue since warrior-themed Ninja," says Jay Cheshes. While the offerings are "more outré" than standard Italian fare, "they aren't quite as deranged as the setting." [TONY]
Related: First Look at Il Matto, Bringing Pecorino Crème Brûlée to Tribeca

I Sodi "has succeeded in reproducing an actual Tuscan bill of fare, such as you might find in roadside osterias near Cortona or Gaiole-in-Chianti," raves Robert Sietsema, who recommends the ravioli, "soft as throw pillows on a well-worn couch." [VV]

"Gari has virtually no New York equals in the area of non-traditional sushi," says Ryan Sutton, but he docks the restaurant a half-star for their failure to disclose the use of endangered bluefin tuna. [Bloomberg]

The starters at Pulino's "are merely acceptable preludes to Applemans pizzas," writes Mike Peed. "One of the best is the polpettine, where you get meatballs again, along with Grana and delicious pickled chiles." [NYer]
Related: Pizza Bloggers Weigh In on Pulino's