Is ‘WASP Cooking’ the Secret to a Successful Scene Restaurant?

By
Photo: Patrick McMullan

Capital New York and NPR take looks at scene restaurants in New York and Silicon Valley, respectively. First, Capital wants to know why restaurants with middling food nevertheless draw a celebrity clientele, and specifically asks, Whats wrong with Kenmare? the Sevigny, Khan, and Campanaro production recently panned by the critics. The half-baked conclusion: In designing the menu, Campanaro didnt adhere closely enough to the WASP cooking style that brings back fond memories of summers spent at the beach club, and instead of bringing in bigwigs, la Michaels or 21 Club, the clientele consists of just the horde, the people you see everywhere. Extras. Okay, but what about clubhouses that dont resort to club food, like Indochine or Omen?

Meanwhile, NPRs Morning Edition is a little kinder to deal-makers diner Bucks, one of the most important business venues in the country for the Silicon Valley set. Theres a lot of talk about the kitsch (a painting of Roy Rogers, etc.) and the servers abrasive styles, and aside from the customer who wavers between pancakes and French toast, pretty much no mention of the food.

Whats Wrong With Kenmare? [Capital New York]
Checking A Tech Bellweather: Bucks Restaurant [NPR]